Classic Japan

You'll begin the day with a visit to some of Kyoto's more important sights. Visit the imposing and opulent Nijo Castle, home to the Tokugawa Shoguns who had power over the country during the Edo period. Check out the ‘nightingale floors' of Ninomaru Palace, which squeak to warn of intruders (like otherwise-silent ninjas). From the Castle it's a short bus ride to Ryoan-ji, perhaps Japan's most famous Zen garden, where carefully placed rocks sit in an immaculately raked sea of gravel. Located also nearby is the extravagantly decorated Kinkakuji Temple, immortalised in Yukio Mishima's novel “The Golden Pavilion”.

This evening, take a step back in time on a walk through the narrow streets of Kyoto's charming Gion district, an entertainment district that's the centre of geisha culture and that really comes alive at night. If you're lucky you might spot geikos (geishas) or maikos (apprentice geishas) with their elaborate dress and make up. If you've got the budget, perhaps attend a tea ceremony at one of the district's teahouses, or splash out on a kaiseki meal in a ryotei (small restaurants serving traditional multi-course cuisine). (B)

Today is a full free day and there's so much for you to explore. With its many cultural landmarks and historical sites, and the abundance of traditional arts and literature, Kyoto is regarded as the cultural heart of Japan. Kyoto is also a city that lends itself to walking, and there are a number of paths available. Recommended is a gentle stroll through the nearby eastern hills along the ‘Path of Philosophy' that links Ginkaku-ji, the Temple of the Silver Pavilion, with Nanzen-ji Temple. This walk can be extended south through well-preserved ‘old town' areas to Kiyamizu-dera (Temple of Clear Water) from where there is a justifiably famous view across a wooded gorge toward Kyoto.

Also recommended, for those visiting in spring, is a visit to the theatre for a presentation of Miyako Odori (the Cherry Blossom Dance) performed by elaborately dressed maiko (apprentice geisha). Close to Kyoto station, you'll also find the architecturally impressive Higashi Honganji temple and the almost surreal Sanjusangendo, home to 1,001 statues of Kannon. In the late afternoon you might like to return to the Kawaramachi or Shijo Dori area of central Kyoto to browse the shops or enjoy dinner in one of the many restaurants that occupy this exciting area. (B)

Spot the 120 temples dotted around Koya-san as you take the train (approximately 4.5 hours) into an important region for Shingon Buddhism. Founded in the 8th century by the Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi, Koya-san has been a centre for religious activities for over 1,200 years. The last leg of the journey takes you through some of Japan's finest scenery, on a mountain road rising through the clouds, 915 metres above sea-level. The most impressive sight on Mount Koya is the massive and mysterious Okunoin cemetery, the resting place of many of Japan's most famous people.

Some 200,000 stone statues, wooden totems and sometimes bizarre memorials (a rocket marks the site of a mausoleum interring the workers of an aerospace company) lie throughout this moss-laden forest. After visiting the more interesting of the mountain's sights, make your way to the comfortable Shukubo Temple Lodging for the night. Here you might interact with some of the monks that run the lodgings, and learn about the customs of traditional Japanese accommodation, and enjoy some monastic vegetarian cuisine. (B/D)

This morning you'll visit the Genbaku (A-Bomb) Dome and the Peace Memorial Park and Museum, both of which stand testament to the fateful day in August 1945 when Hiroshima was chosen as target for the first ever wartime use of the atomic bomb. The dome was just metres from where the bomb detonated so it was able to retain its shape; the fact that it looks almost exactly as it did after the bombing means it serves as a reminder and symbol of peace. The memorial park serves the same purpose, and has museums, memorials and monuments dedicated to the memory of victims, education on what lead to the bomb's use, as well as advocating world peace.

In the afternoon you will head for the serene, enchanting island of Miyajima, reached after a short ferry ride (30 kilometres) across the Inland Sea. The island is home to the venerable Shinto shrine of Itsukushima, famous for its huge bright orange gate (torii) that rises majestically out of the sea. At high tide it is considered to be one of the most beautiful sights in Japan. The size and physical landscape of Miyajima makes it an ideal place for walking. There is the lovely Momiji Park (known as Maple Valley), from where it is possible to walk or take a cable car up to the top of Mt. Misen. Return to Hiroshima for the night and maybe try one of the city's signature dishes for dinner – okonomiyaki, a kind savoury pancake of egg, cabbage, soba noodles, and meat or seafood. (B)

Board a bullet train to Nagoya (approximately 3 hours) where you will then change to an express train and continue north to the mountainous centre of Japan (approximately 75 minutes). You'll spend a memorable night in a ryokan (a traditional Japanese inn) near the medieval village of Tsumago. Once a post town (where travellers could rest on their journey around the country) during the days of the Shogun, Tsumago is the best preserved of the many staging posts along the Edo period Nakasendo Highway. The highway once connected Tokyo with Kyoto and was immortalised in the famous woodblock prints of Hiroshige.

Cars are prohibited in the main street and cables run underground in order to maintain the medieval atmosphere of the town. You'll have the opportunity to walk along a short section of the old Nakasendo Highway, walking from the post town of Magome along the highway to our accommodation at Tsumago enjoying some great views across the valley along the way. In tonight's ryokan, rooms are equipped with thin futon mattresses that are spread on tatami mats for a comfortable night's sleep. Tonight you'll enjoy a traditional dinner cooked in the ryokan. (B/D)

This morning you'll have time to explore Tsumago, where you can wander the ruins of the castle and browse the local shops. You'll then board a train and continue north to the picturesque castle town of Matsumoto (approximately 2 hours). Matsumoto's atmosphere is surprisingly cosmopolitan, while maintaining its historic charm and traditional streetscapes. This afternoon you will stroll through the former merchant district of Nakamachi, lined with well preserved old buildings, where you can find local crafts, treasures and great restaurants. You'll also have the option of visiting the city's most famous site, the Matsumoto Castle, formerly known as Fukashi Castle.

The regal-looking building has an elegant black roof and walls, and is sometimes nicknamed Crow Castle due to its resemblance to the bird spreading its wings. As the oldest original castle in the country (begun in 1592), it's also one of Japan's four castles listed as national treasures. You'll spend the evening here in Matsumoto. Perhaps try the local soba noodles (some of the best in the country) and be sure to get some wasabi-based treats – the pristine waters from the alps make it grow particularly well here. (B)

Today you'll undertake a varied, full-day tour of the city, beginning in the historic Asakusa area. This is one of the older and more traditional parts of Tokyo, and is often called the temple district. Here you'll stop by Senso-ji, the city's oldest temple – founded almost 1,400 years ago when Tokyo was nothing more than a fishing village. Browse the many interesting stalls – filled with tasty treats, crafts and souvenirs – that line the shopping street of Nakamise dori. After lunch you'll enjoy an alternative view of Tokyo as you relax on a short cruise down the Sumida River. You'll pass significant buildings like the Sky Tree Tower, Asahi Beer Hall with its distinctive roof-top sculpture, the Sumo Stadium and the former Tsukiji Fish Market complex, gliding under bridges that bisect the river before alighting at the delightful urban oasis of the Hama Rikyu gardens.

Here you'll have time to stroll along paths that were once the sole preserve of the shogun, who would hunt ducks here in the feudal era. Later you can make your way to the luxurious shopping district of Ginza where, depending on the theatre schedule, you may have the chance to see a short performance of Kabuki, one of Japan's more spectacular performing arts, or visit the food depachika basement floor of a department store to see the huge range of produce exquisitely displayed. (B)