Annapurna Sanctuary Trek

The adventure begins in the capital of Nepal, Kathmandu. There are free arrival transfers available for any flight, provided you have supplied your sales representative with your flight details in advance and have requested one. Your local leader will meet you at the hotel (a time is provided on arrival) for the full trek briefing this evening. Stay: Royal Singi Hotel (or similar).

Late morning we head to the airport and fly west to Pokhara, the 20-minute flight offers views of the Himalaya range to the north (on a clear day). Pokhara is set in a beautiful valley overlooked by the Annapurnas and the fishtail-shaped Machhapuchhare, one of the most distinctive of the Himalayan peaks. We transfer from Pokhara to Naya Pul and then have a 30-minute (1. 2mi/2km) walk to Birethanthi, a village at the confluence of the Modi and Burungdi rivers, where we stay overnight. Stay: Teahouse (B).

We start our trek by following the Burungdi upstream.

After a lunchstop in Tirkhedunga (renowned for its variety of local beer called chang), we climb up steep, stone staircases (approximately three hours) through neatly terraced hillsides to the top of Ulleri. Continuing through Ulleri we stop tonight at lower Banthanti. Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 7,350ft/2,240m) (B).

The trail winds onwards and enters rhododendron forest, which is ablaze with colour in spring. Trains of mules provide vibrant, noisy interludes to the continuous ascent today (there are many stone staircases). Finally, we emerge from the forests at Ghorepani and suddenly a splendid mountain vista appears before us – Dhaulagiri, Annapurna, Hiunchuli, Machhapuchhare, Lamjung and other Himalayan giants. We continue up through Ghorepani to our lodge in Upper Ghorepani (9,515ft/2,900m), usually arriving by lunchtime. Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 9,515ft/2,900m) (B).

This morning there is an optional ascent of Poon Hill (10,530ft/3,210m, about an hour's walk uphill) to see the spectacular sunrise over the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna range. As the sun emerges from behind the mountains, the sky glows red and pink. We head east after breakfast, following a ridge to cross a pass at 10,335ft (3,150m).

We cut through more forest and past teahouses and then the descent becomes steeper as we take stone steps through jungle to a few lodges in a clearing called Banthanti at 9,055ft (2,760m), where we have lunch. Descending further to a small stream, we cross a bridge and climb back up to 8,825ft (2,690m) at Tadapani where we have a superb view of Annapurna South and Machhapuchhare. From here, we descend for a short while to our lodge at Chuili, where we have great views of the mountains from the lovely garden. Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 7,515ft/2,290m) (B).

The trail descends steeply through the forest to the Kyumnu river, a tributary of the Modi River. A steep ascent then brings us to Chhomrong (7,285ft/2,220m) another Gurung village and the last permanent settlement in the valley. Beyond here we see yersas, the summer shelters used by herdsmen. From Chhomrong, we have good views again of Annapurna South and from this point onwards the twin-peaks of Machhapuchhare (Fishtail) that give the mountain its name. Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 7,285ft/2,220m) (B).

The trail from Chhomrong descends first on a stone staircase to cross the Chhomrong River and then climbs steeply on another stone staircase out of this side valley to Sinuwa, where we enter the main Modi River valley. From Sinuwa, the trail descends on stone steps through dense jungle and then undulates to lunch at Bamboo, a cluster of lodges in a clearing surrounded by bamboo thickets. These are cut extensively to make dokos, the carrying baskets used by our porters, and woven mats for floors and roofs. Undulating further through the bamboo forest we reach Dobhan at 8,200ft (2,500m), another small forest clearing with several teahouses. Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 8,200ft/2,500m) (B).

It's a tough day today as we walk above 9,845ft (3,000m). The trail continues up through the forest, passing the lodges at Himalaya Hotel. The trail gets steeper and rockier from here as we climb up past Hinko Cave, where the first expeditions to the basecamp used to spend the night. Crossing a ravine, the trail continues to climb steeply among boulders, leaving the trees behind us. We have lunch at Deurali and from here the valley broadens and the scenery becomes wilder as we approach the gates of the sanctuary. From Deurali, there are two trails.

The one on the left side of the valley is the main trail but when there is a lot of snow (especially in spring) it is not used and an alternative trail on the right side of the valley is used. Your leader will decide which to take. Both meet for the last 1hr 30min climb up between the heights of Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhare to Machhapuchhare Base Camp (12,140ft/3,700m), where we spend the night. The views are stupendous and the panorama includes Huinchuli, Annapurna 1, Annapurna 3, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhare. Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 12,140ft/3,700m) (B).

In the early morning, we walk for two hours up to Annapurna Base Camp (13,550ft/4,130m), surrounded by the snow-capped peaks of some of the highest mountains in the world. Hiunchuli, Annapurna South, Annapurna Fang, Annapurna 1 and 3, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhare all encircle us with unbroken soaring ramparts but for the route by which we entered. The sunset and sunrise are truly magnificent in this mountain arena. We spend the day in this special place with a chance to watch sunrise tomorrow.

There should be time to make an excursion to the ridge overlooking the basecamp from which Sir Chris Bonington led the ascent of Annapurna's South Face. (Occasionally there is too much snow to stay at Annapurna Base Camp. In this case, we walk back down to Machhapuchhare Base Camp in the late afternoon). Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 13,550ft/4,130m) (B).

It's a long and mostly downhill day as we leave the Sanctuary. We follow the same trail back to Machhapuchhare Base Camp and further down to Deurali. Entering the forest, we descend slowly and carefully on a rocky trail through Himalaya and Dobhan back to the lodge at Bamboo. Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 7,645ft/2,330m) (B).

We have a rollercoaster walk today with lots of ups and downs. We start with a climb up to Sinuwa, then we descend to the river and climb back up the stone steps to Chomro. A final steep descent on stone steps brings us to Jhinnudanda. There are nearby hot springs you can visit if you wish; getting there involves descending for 20 minutes or so down to the river, and the climb back up takes a little longer (around 30 minutes). Stay: Teahouse (sleeping altitude: 5,610ft/1,710m) (B).

The trail today undulates down the Modi River valley. We follow the valley down to the road head at Sinwai. If the road is in good condition, we pick up our transport here (sometimes our vehicle cannot get to here) and drive back to Pokhara. If we have to walk to Birethanthi this will add an additional three hours (6mi/10km). Stay: Hotel Dahlia (or similar) (B).

Enjoy a full day to relax in Pokhara. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants along the lakeshore where you can watch paragliders in flight. You may wish to take a rowing boat across Lake Phewa and walk up to the hilltop World Peace Pagoda for fantastic views of the lake. There are also plenty of shops and a traditional bazaar where you can pick up souvenirs. Alternatively, there are several museums to visit, including the International Mountain Museum and the Gurkha Museum. Stay: Hotel Dahlia (or similar) (B).

We fly to Kathmandu. If the weather plays nicely, we can have good views of the western end of Nepal on this flight. The afternoon is free for sightseeing. You may wish to visit the monkey temple at Swayambhunath, one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world at Boudhanath, or the most important Hindu temple in the valley at Pashupatinath. Stay: Royal Singi Hotel (or similar) (B).

The trip ends after breakfast today. Say your goodbyes and begin your return journey home (B).