We take a morning train (either 7.30 am or 8.30 am) from Tashkent to Bukhara. The journey takes just under four hours in a modern train. We spend two full days exploring Bukhara. The best preserved medieval city in Central Asia, this UNESCO World Heritage Site dates back over 2,000 years. Our city tour takes us to the Lyabi Khauz complex, built in the 16th and 17th centuries, this is the site of the oldest pool of its kind in Central Asia. The pool is surrounded by madrasahs and a khanaka (lodging house for travelling Sufis) including the largest madrasah in Bukhara, the 15th century Kukeldash Madrasah.
We continue on to the Poi-Kalyan religious complex with its 48m Kalyan minaret dating back to the 12th century and the symbol of Bukhara; the large Kalyan Mosque (15th century) with its galleries topped by 288 domes; and the only active madrasah in the city, Bukhara Miri-Arab (16th century). Next is the Samanid Mausoleum, the oldest piece of Islamic architecture in Central Asia and burial site of the 10th Century Emir, Ismail Samani. Finally we visit the Ark, a 5th century citadel and the oldest building in Bukhara. Stay: Kavsar Hotel or similar.
Following the morning in Bukhara, we catch the afternoon fast train to Samarkand arriving in the evening. We spend the rest of today and all of tomorrow exploring Samarkand. Samarkand is steeped in history, dating back 2,500 years and impacted by such figures as Alexander the Great, Genghis Khan and Tamerlane, who made it the capital of his empire in the 14th century. Its central position on the Silk Road meant that it was an important stop on the route from Istanbul to Peking (now Beijing). At its heart is the grand Registan Square flanked by the three grand madrasahs of Ulughbeg (15th century), Sherdor (17th century) and Tilya Qori (17th century).
We visit the grand square as well as the Gur Emir Mausoleum, burial place of Tamerlane, his sons and his grandson, Ulughbek. The Ulugbek Observatory built in 1420 by Tamerlane's grandson who was not just a ruler but also a well-known astronomer. We move on to the oversized Bibi Khanum Mosque and Shakhi Zinda – the ‘Living King' necropolis – with its series of mausoleums dating back to the 14th and 15th centuries. Our final visit is to the exotic Siab Bazaar with its fresh and dried fruit and nuts and other local food produce. The exact order of visits may vary. Stay: Dilshoda Hotel or similar.
Early morning transfer to Uzbekistan-Tajikistan border Jartepa (50 km, 1 hour). Visit customs and passport control on both sides, cross the border, meet Tajik local guide and driver and drive to Sarazm. Sarazm is an ancient settlement with 5500 years of history. In 2010 the Sarazm became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Following a visit, we continue by road to Penjikent.
Sightseeing in Penjikent: Museum of Rudaki – As Penjikent is a birthplace of Abu Abdallah Rudaki, considered by many to be the father of Persian Poetry. Ancient Penjikent - ruins of old Sogdian town founded in 5th century and abandoned in the 8th century by Arabs. Foundations of houses, a citadel with a couple of Zoroastrian fire temples and city bazaar are visible in the excavated ruins. Overnight at the hotel. Stay: Panjakent Plaza Hotel or similar.
In the morning, we depart Penjikent and drive to Khujand (300 km, 4-5 hours). En route we pass the town of Istaravshan founded by the Persian king Kier in the 6th century. Whilst Khujand, today, is not the most attractive of cities it has a complex history. Believed to be one of the oldest in Central Asia it was, over the centuries, attacked by successive armies of Alexander the Great, Arab invaders and the marauding hordes of Genghis Khan as well as being an important stop along the Silk Road.
There are still traces of the city's glory days and we take in a tour of the sites. We visit the Historical Museum of Sughd (Museum of Archaeology and Fortification), Shaikh Muslihiddin Mosque, and the Payshanba Bazaar, the biggest bazaar in Tajikistan. Time permitting, we'll also visit Arbob Palace, the former headquarters of a Soviet collective farm, modelled on the winter gardens of Peterhof, St Petersburg. Stay: Hotel Parliament or similar.
We return to Uzbekistan via the border crossing at Andurkhan where we say goodbye to our Tajik crew and re-join the Uzbeks. The total driving time to Ferghana town is about 5hrs from Khujand but we make a number of stops along the way. The first of these is at Kokand which was the capital of the 19th century Kokand Khanate. We visit the Khudoyar-Khan Palace (1871) home to a museum, the Norbuta-Biy Madrassah and the Modarikhon Mausoleum.
From here we continue on to the small village of Rishtan which is famous for potter dynasties and ceramics masters. We visit a local ceramics studio and witness a demonstration of the craft before having the opportunity to buy some of the iconic earthenware. Our final stop is at Marghilan where we visit a local silk factory and learn about the material which has given its name to the greatest trade route in history. Eventually we arrive in Ferghana town where we spend the night. Stay: Hotel Golden Uzbegim or similar.
A short drive gets us to our next border crossing and country number 4. After meeting our Kyrgyz leader we head into nearby Osh, Kyrgyzstan's second city and begin our exploration. The order in which we visit places is flexible but we'll visit Osh Bazaar (Central Asia's largest market), as well as the sacred Sulayman Mountain, a holy Muslim site (and burial place of the prophet Sulayman (Solomon)) and the central point on the Silk Road. The walk to the top of Sulayman Mountain is paved with some steps and can be tiring in the heat but the views over the city and valley below, small museum and 15th century church are worth the effort.
Later, this afternoon, we leave the city behind and head for Arslanbob Nature Reserve (about 3.5-4hrs away including stops), arriving in the evening. The village of Arslanbob is located in the mountains at around 1,600m (though the top and bottom of the village vary considerably in altitude) and is surrounded by an ancient walnut forest believed to be the largest in the world. We spend the next two nights in a basic homestay with outside drop-toilets and outside showers (normally with hot water). Homestay.
This morning there's a chance to go for another short walk to a nearby gorge before continuing our crossing of Central Kyrgyzstan. In the late morning, we set off on the drive to the village of Kyzyl Oi (4.5/5 hours including lunch and rest/photo stops), which translates as ‘Red Bowl' and is so named because of the red cliffs surrounding the village like a bowl and who's clay is used to construct its buildings. The mountains here are hues of red and brown and particularly attractive in the late afternoon and early morning sun.
The village itself dates from before the Great October Soviet Socialist Revolution and has kept its distinctive Central Asia character. Whilst the valley opens out, the village itself is located in a narrow gorge on the banks of the powerful Kekermeren River. Upon arrival there is some free time to explore the village and surrounding area or interact with the families in whose homestays we will spend the night. We will usually be spread across a few houses but we will all have dinner together in one of the houses. Homestay.
Leaving the gorges behind we head towards the high pastures surrounding Son Kul Lake (approx. 4 hours drive, including some rough roads), arriving in time for lunch. Considered by many to be the Jewel in the Kyrygz crown for natural beauty, this is a land of nomadic shepherds tending their flocks. Whilst today yurt camps have multiplied around the lake, the people who look after these camps still often tend their flocks and cattle dot the jailoo (high mountain pastures) cared for by men on horseback. The lake's name means ‘the last lake' and sat at 3,016m it's easy to see how it got its name.
We have the whole of the next day to take in the beauty of the landscape. There is the option to go on a 2-2.5 hour walk to the nearby hills - the hills are quite steep and this may not be for everyone but those who make it to the top will find a few petroglyphs. After lunch, we visit one of the Kyrgyz shepherd families close to camp to learn about their lifestyle and perhaps taste some kumis (a natural drink made from fermented mare's milk) or similar.
There is also the option to go horseriding (optional extra)We experience a bit of the nomad life as we stay in a yurt camp. There are now western style toilets and a 'shower yurt' with proper showers and wash basins. There is hot water when the generator is runing (usually morning and evening) but it is not wholly reliable. Yurt Camp.
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