Today we head out for a day of exploring the bohemian side of Mexico City. We start off by making our way to the south of the city and a particular house hidden behind cobalt blue walls known as Casa Azul. This is where the acclaimed artist Frida Kahlo was born, grew up and, eventually, lived with her muralist husband, Diego Rivera until she died in 1954 at the age of 47. Now a museum, the colonial house, set around a luxuriant garden, doesn't only showcase the collections and personal effects of the two great artists but is a window into the life of affluent Mexican bohemians in the first half of the 20th Century.
Next, we visit the quaint neighbourhood of Coyoacan (meaning place of coyotes) with its pebbled streets, colonial churches, bustling little markets and quiet squares. This area was inhabited before the arrival of the Spanish and it is said that the conquistador, Hernan Cortes, made this the first capital of New Spain. Finally, we enjoy a relaxing ride on a pre-Hispanic boat along the peaceful waters of the Xochimilco Canals. These scenic waterways would have been used by the Aztecs and today see us enjoying a relaxing journey past floating gardens and little floating kitchens selling local food. We will return to our hotel in the late afternoon. Stay: Hotel Regente or similar (B).
The ancient city of Teotihuacan reached its zenith around 1,000AD when it was the 6th biggest city in the world with a population of about 125,000. Amongst the avenues and structures are the pyramids of the Sun and the Moon, the 3rd and 4th largest in the world. We explore this impressive archaeological zone with an expert local guide to unearth some of the site's secrets. Starting our journey south we head towards the city of Puebla (about 2. 5hrs).
In the late afternoon we arrive in Puebla de los Angeles, the City of Angels – so called because of a legend that claims angels came down from heaven to place the cathedral's bells in the towers when builders were unable to do so. The colonial city is known for its traditions, especially its handicrafts, including blue-and-white pottery, and its cuisine that is some of the best in Mexico. Stay: Hotel Colonial Puebla or similar (B).
We spend this morning discovering the city of Puebla which has been given UNESCO World Heritage Site for its colonial architecture. We visit the Patio de los Azulejos and the ex-Convent of Santa Rosa, both of which provide classic examples of how ‘talavera' tiles were incorporated into buildings, inside and out. Early settlers who came from Talavera de la Reina in Spain introduced these tiles and associated ceramics. Today the glazed pottery has become synonymous with Puebla.
After our city tour we continue our journey and drive towards another Mexican World Heritage City, Oaxaca (about 4. 5hrs). With a colonial centre of shaded pedestrian streets, bright, clear light, indigenous traditions and a creative atmosphere, Oaxaca has attracted and inspired many artists and artisans alike. The city boasts such sights as the beautiful zocalo (main square), the Cathedral and the vast Convento de Santo Domingo, along with museums, fascinating markets and charming inns. Stay: Hotel ABU or similar (B).
A long day full of new experiences that will take you closer to understand the myth and history of the Day of Dead; the whole day is laid out to see the Day of the Dead festivities and traditions! Our day starts with a typical breakfast in the local market of Ocotlan de Morelos. Here we get to learn about traditional Oaxaca dishes such as a typical chocolate drink, stuffed chilies, enchiladas or stew with almonds, as well as experiencing the market on this special day, complete with alters set up for the Day of the Dead. From here it's on to San Martin Tilcajete where we discover the pre-Hispanic wood-carving tradition known as ‘Alebrijes' in the work shop of the artisan Jacobo Angeles.
Next we visit the black clay work shop of Miguel Fabian in San Bartolo Coyotepec before moving on to the archaeological site of Zaachila where we learn about pre-Hispanic tombs. This afternoon embrace the Mexican celebration of their ancestors! We join a local family in their home for lunch, where we get to have some traditional Mole and other regional dishes. The family will also invite us to see their ‘Shrine for the Dead' and introduce us to the language Zapoteco. We will take part in the Day of the Dead parade in the local town before visiting the local graveyard at night, listening to brass bands, and watching the entire town fill the cemetery to decorate the graves of their loved ones to then sit by their side all night. Stay: Hotel ABU or similar (B).
About two hours drive from Campeche is our second Mayan site: Uxmal. Quite open, it is in contrast to the jungle-ruins of Palenque we visited yesterday. This site, which dates to the late classic era (500-800AD) and features the Pyramid of the Magician; the Nunnery Quadrangle with long, elaborately carved facades; and a ball court where a traditional ball game was played, sometimes ending in human sacrifice. Having worked up an appetite we have lunch at a local Mayan family restaurant. Here we get to eat Pollo Pibil and Cochinita Pibil – slowly cooked pork and chicken. The meat is roasted for about 5hrs along with achiote paste and wrapped in banana leaves.
This is a typical Yucatan dish and representative of the local cuisine. After lunch it's about 1. 5hrs drive to Merida. A number of the city's buildings, including the cathedral, were built using Mayan stones found on this site and, along traditional colonial architecture, features 19th century houses built in a French style. Arriving mid-afternoon we have a walking tour of Merida, returning later to enjoy the main square which is particularly delightful at night. Stay: Hotel Caribe or similar (B/L).
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