Australia's proximity to Asia is never more apparent than when you are in Darwin. The northernmost capital, named after Charles Darwin, is an exotic blend of frontier town, Asian village, and modern life.

With a population of about 90,000, Darwin has had a turbulent history, and it shows. This city has battled just about everything that man and nature could throw at it. Most of its buildings date from the mid-1970s; Cyclone Tracy wiped out the city on Christmas Eve 1974. Don't bother bringing a jacket and tie here. Shorts and sandals will get you most places -- even the swankiest official state invitations stipulate "Territory Rig" dress, meaning long pants and a short-sleeved open-neck shirt for men.

Darwin is most commonly used as a gateway to Kakadu National Park, Katherine Gorge, and the Kimberley, and many Australians have never bothered to visit it, or at least not for long. And that's a real shame, because it is an attractive and interesting place.

Give yourself a day or two to wander the pleasant streets and parklands, visit the wildlife attractions, and discover some of the city's rich history. Then take time for some wetlands fishing in outlying regions, or shop for Aboriginal art and the Top End's South Sea pearls. An easy day trip is Litchfield National Park, one of the Territory's best-kept secrets, boasting the kind of beautiful waterfalls to swim under that you only see on holiday brochures.

The City

Exploring the compact central business district by day is best done on foot, or aboard a jump on and off tour bus. The city can also be circumnavigated on a bicycle following a designated path that meanders through the lush esplanade that skirts the CBD and provides great views over the harbour.

At night you can immerse yourself in the electric atmosphere of the pubs and nightclubs that dominate the city's nightlife hub on Mitchell Street, dine at Cullen Bay or try your luck at the casino on Mindil Beach.

Local restaurants serve dishes from all over the world along with authentic Northern Territory cuisine like mud crabs, barramundi, buffalo, kangaroo and crocodile. You can choose from silver service fine dining, an al fresco meal with a harbour view, or a platter of local seafood at the wharf.

On weekends the city is scattered with open air markets at Parap, Nightcliff and Mindil Beach. Here you'll find an array of stalls serving cuisines from all over Asia and locally made arts and crafts. There are also performances from musicians and artists, a variety of street theatre, traditional bush poetry and even free stock-whip cracking lessons.

Darwin Harbour's healthy population of barramundi and other tropical fish make it a world-class fishing destination and its turquoise waters set the scene for the more relaxed option of a sunset cruise.

Climate

The Top End has two distinct seasons:

Tropical Winter, "The Dry" (April to September), consistently mild, clear blue skies, with low humidity, very little or no rain.

Tropical Summer, "The Wet" (October to March). During this season there can be late afternoon thunderstorms, high humidity and heavy downpours. The coast is also subject to tropical cyclones (hurricanes or typhoons). Many consider this to be the region's most beautiful time of year. A predictable daily ritual of sunshine and afternoon showers refreshes the landscape and coaxes nature back to life on a grand scale. The sights, sounds and smells associated with this season make summer a truly sensory experience.